Newberry makes an impression

 

They are Oregon's other crater lakes, the ones you probably have never even heard of.

Two of them sit at the bottom of the expansive Newberry Caldera in Central Oregon, about 20 miles south of Bend.

Paulina Lake and East Lake are much smaller than Crater Lake, the gem of Crater Lake National Park, but both stand out in their respective settings as they sparkle in the sun reflecting the mostly blue skies above and greenery around them.

Paulina Lake boasts two boat docks, a lodge, and a scenic loop trail around its shores, while East Lake is more forested with its own resort tucked into the southeast corner.

Together they are the centerpiece of the 55,500-acre Newberry National Volcanic Monument created inside the Deschutes National Forest by an act of Congress in 1990.

In between is a small forested and cratered cone with its Little Crater Trail, and to the south is the aptly named Big Obsidian Flow.

Evidence of the area's volcanic past is everywhere.

A huge magma chamber under ground has emptied its contents and everything on top of it collapsed downwards, creating the caldera -- much in the same way Crater Lake was created when Mount Mazama erupted.

Ensuing volcanic activity created Little Crater and Big Obsidian Flow and other area features. The last of the smaller eruptions came in the year 690 AD, but the entire Newberry Volcano is still considered active and closely monitored.

Recreational opportunities now abound, from boating, rafting and fishing on the lakes to hiking the many trails that crisscross and encircle the scene, which is all overlooked by 7,984-foot Paulina Peak to the south.

Paulina Lake has hot springs across the water from the lodge, which is located near the trailhead for Paulina Creek Falls on the southwest corner of the lake.  The Paulina Visitor Center is also located near the road as it enters the area.

Camping is offered at numerous locations, especially near the lakes.

East Lake covers 1,050 acres and is located at 6,400 feet in altitude.  Paulina Lake is somewhat lower at 6,331 feet above sea level and larger at 2.394 square miles.

How to get there:

Paulina Lake Lodge is located at 22440 Paulina-East Lake Rd., La Pine, OR 97739 while the overall Newberry National Volcanic Monument headquarters and the Lava Lands Visitor Center is at 58201 US-97, Bend, OR 97702.  East Lake Resort is at 22430 Paulina Lake Rd., La Pine, OR 97739.

Call (541) 383-5300 for information.

The entrance to the area is an eastward turn off Highway 97 on route 21 between La Pine and Sun River.

Photos of Paulina Lake (top) and East Lake (bottom) and text by Tim Clinton.

 

Wild ride pays off in great views

It's worth the wild ride to get to Windy Ridge on Mt. St. Helens' blown out Northeast side.

The road weaves its way through thick forest as you head south from a turnoff on Washington's Highway 12 near the town of Randle.

Vehicles dip in and out of ruts and potholes galore, as the foursome I was with found out on a late August day.

Barry and I bumped our heads on the ceiling frequently in the back seat, while Nancy and Ethan in the front fared little better on the jolting trek.

A different kind of shock awaits you as you get closer to the mountain, as you suddenly pop out of the forest into a world of much smaller and evenly sized trees.

You are now entering the blast zone carved out when the mountain blew her top during a massive landslide the morning of May 18, 1980.

Life is slowly but surely returning to the area, from alders, firs and alpines to flowers and brush.

Thanks to the smaller size of the trees, the mountain itself comes into view and reappears again and again along with its close neighbors Mt. Adams and Mt. Rainier.  Oregon's Mt. Hood even appears for a brief moment.

The path offers vistas from pullouts along the way until at last you come to the wide parking lot at Windy Ridge.

From here you get a view of the Northeast side of the mountain, right into the crater with the lava dome that gradually built up since the 1980 blast.

A switch-backed path goes up a hillside and offers a view over some hills and trees in between the ridge and the mountain, and on one side of the lot you can look down on the log-strewn remains of Spirit Lake.

Once you are done taking in the sights and absorbing the size and scope of the 1980 disaster, it's time to hit the long and winding road out once more.

How to get there:

To get to Windy Ridge, take Highway 12 from either Interstate 5 to the west or from the Yakima side to the east.

Follow the Mt. St. Helens and Windy Ridge signs south from near Randle.

Text and photos by Tim Clinton.

Skagit Valley tulips blooming late

Skagit Valley's annual Tulip Festival may be running the entire month of April as always, but the tulips have not been cooperating.

Colder than normal temperatures for this time of year have set the blooming season back at least one week.

The daffodil fields are still in bloom right now, with the first tulip blossoms not expected to appear until this weekend.

What promises to be a colorful tulip season will not peak until some time in the ensuing weeks.

But four huge farms are more than ready to go for what will be the 40th running of the festival and are taking reservations and selling tickets ahead of time for visits in the Mount Vernon area.

RoozenGaarde and Tulip Town are back in the act along with newcomers Garden Rosalyn and Tulip Valley Farms.

The Skagit Valley tulips come in a wide variety of colors and Catherine Smith, a Korean friend, says that each has a different meaning.

Yellow and red dominate the scenes at the Skagit farms.

"It's hard not to smile when looking at a bouquet of yellow tulips, therefore the flower language of the yellow tulip is happiness and good luck," she said.  "Red tulips mean eternal love and passion, so they are more popular flowers among couples and also used in weddings.  If you are the romantic type and want to win someone's heart, send a beautiful bouquet of red tulips."

How to get there:

Take Mount Vernon exit 225 or 226 off of Interstate 5 some 60 miles north of Seattle and follow the Tulip Festival signs out to the area of the fields.

The festival runs an office that is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily in April located at 311 W. Kincaid Street, Mount Vernon, WA 98273 with a phone number of (360) 428-5959.

More information can be found at the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival website at tulipfestival.org, including links to the individual farms for purchasing advance tickets.

Text and photos by Tim Clinton.

Ferries make getting there fun

They say that getting there is half the fun, and that's certainly the case with taking a ferry boat ride to and from Vashon Island.

The ships ply the waters of Puget Sound at all times of day and most of the night from three different terminals, offering a look at the stunning Pacific Northwest scenery.

You can catch one to and from Fauntleroy in West Seattle, Southworth on the other side of the sound on the Kitsap Peninsula, or Point Defiance in Tacoma to the south.

Or you can stay on the boat and skip the island except for a quick docking, going all the way from Fauntleroy to Southworth or vice versa.

The Faultleroy and Southworth ferries make landfall on the northern tip of Vashon Island and the Point Defiance ferry has Tahlequah on the southern end as its destination.

Once aboard you can leave your vehicle and take the stairs to the main passenger cabin.  You can take a seat in one of the booths and watch the Sound go by, or stroll around and go out on the deck at either end of the vessels and feel the breeze as it speeds along.

The Fauntleroy and Southworth runs offer a cafeteria with food and drink on the Issaquah, while the Point Defiance and Tahlequah runs do not aboard the Chetzemoka.

Restrooms are offered on both ships.

The trip back is always included with the cost of going to Vashon Island. That is the case whether you leave for the same destination you came from or from the other end of the island.

That's because there is no other means to get your vehicle on or off the island, so if you are getting off it is correctly assumed that you already paid the fare.

Costs vary depending on vehicle type and length and how old the driver and any passengers are, but are available online at the Washington State Ferries site.  Enter the departure and arrival sites to get a table to calculate from. 

How to get there:

Fauntleroy can be found by taking the West Seattle bridge (Spokane Street) to 35th Ave. SW and turning left to go south to SW Morgan Street, where you take a right.  Go down the hill and take a left at the stop sign on Fauntleroy and follow it down to the terminal.

Southworth is located by turning onto Sedgwick Rd. (Highway 160) off Highway 16 and taking a right on Southworth Dr. just above the terminal.

The Point Defiance terminal is off Highway 16 onto Pearl Street (Highway 163) in Tacoma, where you take a right and head north to its end.

Story and photos by Tim Clinton.

 

Tour the Cascade volcanoes by air

There's more than one way to see the Cascade volcanoes of Oregon and Washington.

You can take days and pick them off one by one in your vehicle.

But there's also the option of seeing them in the span of about an hour by jet on your way to or from California.

Nine of them were clearly visible for those on the right side of Alaska Airlines Flight 1061from Santa Ana's John Wayne airport to SeaTac the afternoon of January 19th -- as they are on many West Coast flights.

In this case the glistening snow covered peaks stood out above a sea of low clouds as viewed from an announced height of 38,000 feet.

Mount McLoughlin near Medford and Ashland led off the parade, and after awhile the Three Sisters came into view.

One was spotted first from the inside seat away from the window, and a lean forward suddenly revealed a second volcanic peak.

In the case of Oregon where there is two that close there must be another, and sure enough a lean back into the seat revealed a third.

After the scene that was too close and big to fit into one photo frame, clouds once again dominated the scene until another peak came into view -- Mount Jefferson.

Shortly thereafter the distinctive pointed peak of Mount Hood popped into view.

Next up in the lineup of nine was somewhat distant Mount Adams in Washington, and it was followed shortly by truncated Mount St. Helens.

This mountain had its peak slide off into a huge explosion on May 18, 1980.

Now it sat peacefully below all coated with snow, with the crater visible as well as two lakes on the exploded north side, Spirit Lake and Coldwater Lake.

Coldwater was created by the events on that fateful day in 1980, while Spirit Lake existed before but was greatly rearranged by them.

Before the blast the now log strewn lake surrounded by mostly barren but recovering hills was a gem sitting among a pristine forest.

 Last but certainly not least to appear was Mount Rainier.

At first it was visible in the distance, but quickly disappeared from view through the windows as the Boeing 737-800 banked down toward SeaTac.

Just as quickly the mighty landmark snapped back into view as the jet liner evened out, this time from a closer and lower vantage point.

The non-volcanic but also snow capped Olympics appeared in the west as the airplane circled around to the north for its landing at SeaTac International.

How to get there:

Book a round trip to a California destination on a hopefully clear enough day and forgo the urge to nap, read or watch a movie and look out the window.

Photos and text by Tim Clinton.

Mt. McLoughlin

Three Sisters.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Three Sisters

Mt. Jefferson

 

Mt. Hood

Mt. Adams

Mt. St. Helens

Hit the slopes at Crystal Mountain

If you love to hit the slopes, Crystal Mountain is a great place to hit them.

The Pierce County ski resort east of Enumclaw offers views of Mount Rainier in places as you course your way down.

You can certainly see it from the top of the Crystal Mountain gondola ride, which lures visitors for its view year round.

The now 60 year old resort itself sits at the end of a valley on a dead end spur road off of Highway 410.  Rather than continuing over Chinook Pass, exit left at the Crystal Mountain Road signs before you get to the top.

Crystal Mountain Resort runs free shuttle trailers from the parking lots up to the base of the slopes, or, if you are going on a weekend or holiday, you can even catch a free bus ride all the way from the Enumclaw Expo Center.

The Enumclaw bus starts running Monday,  Dec. 26 this year with reservations recommended.

Reservations are required for parking, however, at a price of $30 on Saturdays and holidays and $20 on Sundays.  It is free to those with a valid season pass or those in carpools of four or more.

Unless you are over the age of 80 and can ski for free on slopes for all skill levels, it also costs for the lift tickets.  You can buy them online ahead of time and save under Crystal Mountain's dynamic pricing system.

The cost for daily lift tickets is $139-$189 for adults, or $55-$75 for senior citizens under the age of 80.

Prices also run $55-$75 for children ages 5-12 and $124-$169 for ages 13-22.

You can also save by purchasing one of several season passes available, or a three-day Wild Card pass for $299 for adults that is good weekdays only through March 13.

Season pass holders can get friends and family in for 25 percent off regular lift ticket prices this winter.

The highest slope originates above the tree line at 7,000 feet in elevation, with the vertical rise set at 2,612 feet.

Snowshoe trails are offered for those who want to enjoy the views and resort participating in a different sport.

Ski and snowboard lessons are available.

For more information on the Crystal Mountain Resort, call (833) 279-7895 or check online at the crystalmountainresort.com site.

How to get there:

The address for Crystal Mountain Resort is 33914 Crystal Mountain Blvd., Enumclaw, Wash.

Take Highway 410 off Highway 167 near Sumner, or join it from somewhere else including in Buckley or in Enumclaw at the foot of the Cascade Mountains.

Head toward Chinook Pass, which is closed during the winter and most of the spring, and veer off at Crystal Mountain Road.  The road winds its way up the valley to the resort, which boasts three hotels, two on-mountain restaurants and a day lodge with a cafeteria, an espresso stand and two restaurants with bars.  Equipment rental is offered, including being reserved and paid for online.

Night skiing is available on weekends and holidays.

You can also get there on Highway 410 out of Yakima in the summer months to enjoy the gondola, but you have to go around on Snoqualmie and White Pass during the winter for the shortest distance.

Text and photo by Tim Clinton.

There's a lot to do at Flaming Geyser

There is plenty to see and do at Flaming Geyser State Park, even if there isn't much of a flaming geyser.

There is a flame flickering about six inches tall, coming up out of a pile of small rocks and fed by natural gas pockets some 1,000 feet below the surface.

But there are no water eruptions in the Yellowstone sense of the word.

Now I had always been told by older generations of residents that there once was a water geyser here that flamed if you threw a match into it.

But, the story goes, the owner tried to make it bigger by blasting it and killed the water show instead.

Now the internet says that what existed was an eight-foot flame when lit, but it was capped at its current height for safety.

But what the 503-acre park lacks in the way of the geyser it more than makes up for with three miles of freshwater front on the true centerpiece -- the Green River.

The tree-lined river cuts and meanders throughout the property, providing raft, kayak and inner tube opportunities when safety precautions such as life jackets are observed.

It also provides photo and riverside picnic opportunities galore, or you can pick out a spot to simply sit on a log, rock or bank and take in the view and the sound of rushing water over rocks, or to fish from if you are licensed and so desire.

Across the developed park area from the river is a hillside with 4.3 miles of hiking trails.  One mile's worth of trails in the park are even open for horseback riding.

A playground is offered as well as ample fields to participate in badminton, volleyball, Frisbee, softball or catch.

You can find fire pits here, and restrooms including for ADA are available.

Wildlife and bird watching exists for the observant.

How to get there:

The address of Flaming Geyser State Park is 23700 SE Flaming Geyser Rd., Auburn, WA 98092.

From Auburn and Highway 18, go up the Green Valley Road and wind through the farmlands for about 15 miles until you come to the sign for Flaming Geyser State Park to your right.

You go down a short road until you cross the Green River into a field where the road comes to the automated pay station.  Here you can get a $30 annual Discover Pass or a $10 day use pass.

The road continues to cross the field -- where you can fly model airplanes -- until you come to the Green River, which it then follows until its conclusion with a parking lot and recreational fields with picnic shelters.

To get to the Flaming Geyser itself, take a short trail up from the end of the road and parking area past the old resort until you come to a rock lined pit.  In the middle is a flickering flame coming out of a pile of smaller rocks.

Beyond this point you cross a creek and the trail either takes you down to a scenic spot on the Green River or up a hillside into the trees.

Call (253) 735-8839 for more information on the park, which is open year round from 8 a.m. until dusk.

Text and photos by Tim Clinton.

Take the pass less travelled

 

At 5,575 feet in elevation, it ranks as the highest paved pass in the state of Washington.

Yet Sherman Pass, tucked away in the Okanogan Mountains in the Northeast corner of the state, is one of the least known and least travelled.

But you can't say it isn't pretty, and it has a picnic area, campground and viewpoint near the top from which to enjoy it.

From Sherman Overlook at the 5,220-foot mark you can look up and to the south at 6,998-foot Sherman Peak, which is tree covered and often snow covered before other places in the state get a taste of it.

At least that's the way it was when viewed on a September trip over the pass in 2017.

Fresh snow clung to the side of the road, and blanketed the slopes above it.

To the north, on the other hand, you could see the dry grass and trees typical of the mountains of Eastern Washington.

You can also look down the valley and the road that winds toward the distant town of Republic.

The campground located here has nine tent/trailer sites with bathrooms available.

Sherman Pass also features the Canyon Creek Campground located to the east above Kettle Falls, and a snow park -- also to the east of the top.

The Canyon Creek Campground is open from Memorial Day weekend through Oct. 27 each year, while the Sherman Overlook Campground is open from Memorial Day weekend through Sept. 30.

The snow park is a rather difficult non-motorized trail for cross country skiing and snowshoeing. A Washington state Sno-Park Permit is required from Dec. 1 through March 31, which is the peak season.

How to get there:

Sherman Pass can be found on Highway 20, which runs east and west between Kettle Falls and Republic on what is a 35-mile stretch of the road.

The address of the Sherman Overlook Campground is Kettle Falls, WA 99141.

Text and photos by Tim Clinton.

Smith Rock jumps out of a hole

Smith Rock has an odd look to it when you first see it across the Central Oregon desert.

The feature looms above the scene located near Redmond and Terrebone north of Bend, but appears to be coming up out of a huge hole.

When you get to the rim and look down you see that what is actually a series of gigantic rocks starts below and is even taller from bottom to top than it initially appeared.

The Crooked River snakes its way through the landscape around and in front of the rocks.

All of the rocks are part of what is left of an ancient volcano.

The hole they come up out of was formed when the magma chamber below was emptied and collapsed in on itself to create the Crooked River Caldera.

Subsequent activity resulted in the rocks, which are composed of volcanic tuff.

The tops of the rocks stand at roughly 3,200 feet above sea level.  They offer the goal of thousands of possible climbing routes available in Smith Rock State Park.

The 641-acre park is crisscrossed by 15 major trails for other uses such as hiking, trail running, mountain biking and horseback riding.  They range from several easy trails to difficult paths with names such as the Misery Ridge Trail.

Slack lining is another available activity in the park.

Those with less time and/or energy can walk a short ways down from the parking lot and take in the scene at a lookout next to one of the gnarly juniper trees.

The day use area is open all year from dawn to dusk, with tent camping only offered to those who want to stay.

How to get there:

Smith Rock State Park has an address of Smith Rock State Park, Terrebone, OR. 97760 and can be reached by calling (800) 551-6949 or (541) 548-7501.

Follow the signs from nearby Highway 97, which runs north and south across all of Central Oregon and Washington.

Text and photos by Tim Clinton.

Grand Coulee light show returns

It's back.

The nightly "One River, Many Voices" laser light show has returned on the spillway of the Grand Coulee Dam after the COVID pandemic took it away.

It came back to the gigantic Eastern Washington structure May 28 of this year and is still running through Sept. 30 starting at 8:30 p.m.

Right before each show more Columbia River water is allowed over, providing a white screen for a backdrop.

Only a comparative trickle flows during the day.

No admission is charged for onlookers for a feature that covers the building of the dam and its benefits as well as what it has done to the environment and the Native American side of the story.

The dam itself is so huge that it boasts 12 million cubic yards of concrete and stands at 550 feet high.

It has enough concrete to form a sidewalk four feet wide and four inches deep all the way around the equator twice -- or 50,000 miles long.

It took from 1933 to 1942 to build it, and it irrigates 600,000 acres.

For more information, contact the Grand Coulee Visitor Center at (509) 633-9265.

How to get there:

The Grand Coulee Visitor Center is located at WA-155, Coulee Dam, WA 99116.

Take Highway 17 north from I-90 and Moses Lake, turning right onto Highway 2 and taking a left off of it at Highway 155.  Head north along Banks Lake in the scenic Grand Coulee until you come to the dam after a narrow strip of land.

Text and photo by Tim Clinton.

Overlook has Heavenly view

There is nothing diabolical about the Diablo Lake Overlook.

In fact, the view from the North Cascades Highway turnout can be downright Heavenly.

The turquoise lake below winds its way around snow capped peaks as you look in multiple directions from a vista that boasts ample parking for onlookers.

And even though the overlook and Diablo Lake itself are technically not in North Cascades National Park, you can certainly see it from there.

The jagged glaciated pinnacles of the park stand out to both the north and south of the highway and waterway through the Ross Lake National Recreation Area.

The lake is a reservoir behind the Diablo Dam that can be seen in the distance to the northwest and is located between Ross Lake and Gorge Lake on the Skagit River.

Diablo Lake has a surface elevation of 1,201 feet and covers an area of 1.422 square miles.

It gets its stunning color from glacial flour, or fine rocks particles, suspended in the water that enter the lake through glacial streams.

It is best viewed on sunny days in July, August and September, when most seasonal glacial melt occurs.

And the temperature of Diablo Lake is anything but hot, and is in fact said to be downright cold.

The water is the home of Bull, Cutthroat, Rainbow and Brook Trout that can be pursued by those with a valid Washington fishing license.

Camping can be found in the area, including right on Diablo Lake,

The north shore of the lake also boasts the 3.8 mile long Diablo Lake Trail.

But the best place to take it all in is the overlook.

How to get there:

The Diablo Lake Overlook is located at mile post 131.7 on State Route 20, otherwise known as the North Cascades Highway.

The quickest way to get there from Western Washington and Oregon is to take the State Route 20 exit off Interstate 5 and head east, but the most scenic way to go is from east to west.

Take Highway 2 from Snohomish in the west or from Spokane and dozens of small communities in the east and turn north on Highway 97 or 97A north of Wenatchee.  Turn northwest on Highway 153 in Pateros and follow it until you reach State Route 20 and turn left.

Photos and text by Tim Clinton.

Steamboat Rock stands out

Steamboat Rock sticks out like a sore thumb.

You can see it for miles away mostly out your front window as you traverse Central Washington's lengthy Grand Coulee from south to north, or mostly out the back window from north to south.

The basaltic butte stands out so much that it has been used as a navigational reference point for everything from covered wagons to modern fighter jets.

It is also pretty enough as it towers above Banks Lake to warrant its own state park.

It is situated on a peninsula jutting out into the 25-mile long lake created by water from the Grand Coulee Dam, with the connecting piece of land south of the rock offering ample parking, camping, boating, restrooms, showers and other facilities.

Steamboat Rock can be viewed up close from there, or from pullouts across the water on Highway 155 to the east.

The 5,043-acre state park has 50,000 feet of freshwater shoreline, with the 800-foot tall rock itself covering 600 acres.

Hiking and biking is available on 13.1 miles of trails including onto the top of the rock, where wildflowers abound in favorable months.  There are 10 miles of horse trails.

Individual campsites can be reserved for use from April 1 to Oct. 31 and are first-come, first-served from Nov. 1 to March 31.  There are 26 standard campsites and 164 full hookup sites plus three cabins.

Discover passes are required for use of the park at $30 per year good for all Washington state parks.  One day passes are also available at $10 per vehicle.

How to get there:

Turn north onto Highway 155 off of Highway 2 just east of Coulee City and the Dry Falls Dam and drive until you come to the state park to your left.

You can also get there from Highway 174 and the Grand Coulee Dam area to the north by heading south on Highway 155.

From Interstate 90 and Moses Lake, head north on Highway 17 until you come to Highway 2, taking a right and heading east before taking a left onto Highway 155 after Coulee City.

A short cut is available heading east on Interstate 90 before Moses Lake, turning northeast onto Highway 283 until it joins Highway 17 at Soap Lake, where you take a left.

The Steamboat Rock State Park address is 51052 WA-155, Electric City, WA 99123.

Call (509) 633-1304 for more information on the state park, or (888) 226-7688 for camping.

Text and photos by Tim Clinton.

Sunrise shines in the morning

Morning is the best time to visit Sunrise, whether that is your destination or you are on your way around Mount Rainier.

Since it is located on the northeast side of the mountain the sun hits there first in the summer, plus if you are early enough you can beat the crowd.

Cars were lined up into the distance waiting to get in before midday on a Saturday, July 9 visit, after you were able to enter with no wait by 10 a.m.

Also helping with the crowd would be an arrival in the middle of the week, especially after school starts and before it is closed by snow.

This year snow remains a factor even in July.

It has been cleared from the roads, but patches remain everywhere around the lodge and gift shop, adding to the view but blocking many trails.

The views of Mount Rainier are outstanding, particularly of the steep Emmons Glacier coming down from the crater on Columbia Crest. Other features like Steamboat Prow and Liberty Cap stand out to the right.

But not to be overlooked are the features to the left on the other side of the White River Valley across from Sunrise.

Jagged peaks stick up into the sky including that of Little Tahoma right next to Mount Rainier, or Mount Tahoma as it was known to the Native Americans.

Little Tahoma ranks among the tallest peaks in the state of Washington at 11,138 feet, but is dwarfed by the 14,410 feet of Mount Rainier.

Sunrise Day Lodge is open from July through the end of September and is located at 6,400 feet -- or 1,000 feet higher than the 5,400 feet of Paradise Inn on the south side of Mount Rainier.

How to get there:

Take Highway 410 out of Sumner, Highway 164 out of Auburn or Highway 169 from Renton and Maple Valley into Enumclaw where the three highways converge.

Follow Highway 410 east toward Chinook Pass, but veer right before you get there into the White River Entrance of Mount Rainier National Park.

From Yakima and the east, take 410 west over Chinook Pass and take a sharp left shortly thereafter into the White River Entrance.

The road to Sunrise switches back and forth up from the entrance and includes one wide parking lot and lookout at the point of the last switchback.  From there it's a short jaunt to Sunrise.

Thursday, Aug. 4 will be free admittance day for Mount Rainier and all other national parks in the United States.  The next free day after that will be Saturday, Sept. 24.

Private vehicle passes good for seven days are normally $30, while seven day motorcycle passes are $25.  The per person walk-up or bicycle fee is $15.

Annual Mount Rainier passes for a car, driver and passengers are $55.

Discover Passes are for state lands only and do not include national parks.

Call (360) 569-2211 for more information on Mount Rainier National Park.

Text and photos by Tim Clinton.

Step back into the Old West

You can almost feel like you are stepping back in time to the Old West when you visit Winthrop.

False fronts and wood paneling highlight the buildings downtown, giving them a late 1800s look.

The hillsides above the town in Central Washington's Methow Valley are even mostly barren with desert scrub brush straight out of a Western movie.

The only giveaways are that the streets are paved instead of dirt or gravel, and the wagons and horses have been replaced with automobiles that go by on Highway 20.

Of course the motif was designed to lure in North Cascades travelers and get them to stop and shop, or to stay and make the town a center of operations for outdoor adventures.

After all, Methow Trails maintains 120 miles of trails for cross country skiing in the winter or for hiking and mountain biking in the summer and early fall.

Most of the trails are snow free from early May through November, except for the higher elevation paths that are open from July through early October.

Heliskiing is also offered in the nearby mountains for the most adventurous.

Winthrop is only the permanent home of 340 people according to the 2020 census, but what the town lacks in size it makes up for in big events.

The biggest event of the slate is the July 15-17 Rhythm and Blues Festival that attracts musicians and visitors annually from all over the Northwest.

It is so big that onsite camping is allowed with portable showers provided for those unable to get standard accomodations in the area.

Winthrop also hosts tournaments during the winter on its outdoor National Hockey League-sized rink as well as up to eight teams for the Winthrop Snowshoe Softball Tournament taking place every President's Day weekend in February.

Scheduled for Nov. 25-26 of this year is the annual Christmas At The End of the Road celebration that also ranks among the bigger of many scheduled local events.

While much of the North Cascades Highway 20 to the west is closed for the winter and early spring, Winthrop and the Methow Valley can be approached from the east all year.

For more information on year round recreational opportunities, contact Methow Trails at (509) 996-3287.

How to get there:

From late spring through early fall the most direct route to Winthrop from Western Washington and Oregon is to head to Burlington on Interstate 5 and take the Highway 20 exit heading east.

A short cut from the south is to take the Highway 530 exit near Arlington and go northeast until the road joins Highway 20 in Rockport, where you take a right.

But the more scenic and year round route is from east to west on Highway 20.

You can get to it from Highway 2 (Stevens Pass for Western Washingtonians) from the west or east and turn north on Highway 97 or 97A, which reunite in Chelan and head further north.  Take a left on Highway 153 in Pateros and another left when you come to Highway 20 near Twisp.

Text and photos by Tim Clinton.

Ring in the Fourth at Liberty Bell

 

What comes to mind when you hear the phrase Liberty Bell?

This time of year especially the chances are you think of a cracked patriotic bell in Philadelphia.

But in Washington State it takes on a different meaning as a jagged mountain on the North Cascades Highway.

The northern portion of the Liberty Bell Massif series of peaks is bell shaped with a giant crack in it and thus earns the name Liberty Bell Mountain.

The massif as a whole resembles a cathedral or castle, and it towers above Washington Pass on Highway 20, with the best place to view it being the Washington Pass Overlook.

It is part way up the massif but out a ways, presenting a view of the east side of the mostly north-south running ridgeline.

Liberty Bell is the tallest point on the right as viewed from the overlook, standing at 7,720 feet above sea level.

The Early Winters Spires South stands out like a lookout tower on the left side, with the Concord Buttress in between.

The Liberty Bell Massif can be seen from miles away at the head of the Methow Valley, with the overlook also offering a view down toward Mazama and Winthrop.

It can also be seen from the west including from places in the Skagit Valley, but the best way to see it -- and all of the North Cascades for that matter -- is from the east going west.

The Washington Pass Overlook is at the end of a short pull off road and features a wide parking area and a short walk through alpine firs to the viewpoint.

The granite massif also stands like a lure for adventurous climbers, with the top of the Liberty Bell portion not reached until 1946.

How to get there:

Liberty Bell and Washington Pass are located just east of North Cascades National Park on Highway 20.

They can be accessed from the east from the Methow Valley.  To get to Highway 20 and the valley take Highway 2 from Snohomish and Monroe just north of Seattle and head east, or take Highway 2 heading west out of Spokane.

Turn north on Highway 97 or 97A at Wenatchee until they converge in Chelan and keep going north to Highway 153, turning left onto it near Pateros.  This cutoff takes you to Highway 20 at Twisp, where you turn left to head west.

There are two more options from west to east off I-5.  You can take Highway 530 near Arlington and join Highway 20 in Rockport, where you take a right.

You can also hop directly onto Highway 20 further north at the Burlington exit, turning right.

Text and photos by Tim Clinton.

You can get married at Rocky Reach

The assignment seemed simple enough:  Take a picture of yourself in front of a dry Central Washington hill to prove you were over there.

But finding an interesting one is hard, and then it has to be in a place you can stop.

You can find both at Rocky Reach Dam Park just north of Wenatchee.

Huge basaltic rocks stick out among the dry grass on the hills overlooking the park that also features green grass, trees, Columbia River beachfront and the dam itself.

You can even get married under the wedding pergola if you so desire, but you have to bring your own minister or Justice of the Peace.

Use of the 17-acre park, and even the pergola, is free.

You can get out and visit the Rocky Reach Dam Discovery Center museum, and stroll onto the dam -- or into it on a tour.

If you are there at the right time fish can be observed working their way up the ladder that accompanies the dam run by the Chelan County Public Utility District, which also owns and operates the park.

Restrooms are available as are two picnic shelters with barbecue grills, a playground and horseshoe pits.

Rocky Reach Dam Park is open from March 1 through October 31 and has normal operating hours of 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., while the Discovery Center is open year round the same hours but only from Tuesday through Sunday.

Picnic shelter reservations are accepted beginning the first Monday of January each year by calling (509) 663-7522.

And what about the wedding pergola?

Reservations are accepted year round at (509) 661-4960.

How to get there:

Rocky Reach Dam Park is located seven miles north of Wenatchee on Highway 97A.

The address is 6151 SR97A (Mile post 203.71), Wenatchee, WA 98801.

The exit for Highway 97A off of U.S. Highway 2 is located just west of the Columbia River in the northern part of Wenatchee.  It is just before the Frances Farmer Bridge going east and just after it going west.

Text and photos by Tim Clinton.

Wallowa Lake has Swiss look

They don't call the Wallowa Lake area the Switzerland of the United States for nothing.

Mountains tower above and drop steeply into the large Northeast Oregon tarn, looking much like the Alps in the scenic European nation.

Wallowa Lake is hemmed in on three sides by the Wallowa Mountains, with the fourth side to the north of the glacial cirque valley dammed up by an ancient moraine of epic proportions.

The formation created by rocks and dirt falling off the end of a Pleistocene Age glacier stands at 1,210 feet high from the bottom of the lake to the top above it.

A small human made dam from 1917 helped increase the maximum depth of the lake some 30 feet to its current 299 feet with the average depth set at 161 feet.

The elongated 2.347 square mile lake boasts a length of 3.48 miles and it is 5,280 feet wide.

It is made up of almost pristine fresh and clear water, with some locals still drinking directly from it.

Recreational opportunities abound in the setting, with the easiest being a quick stop at Wallowa Lake County Park on the north end one mile south of the town of Joseph, which was named after the famed Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce tribe.

From here you can look across to the mountains, with the grassy and rocky moraine standing out to the left.

The park is for day use only and includes a few picnic tables and a boat ramp, from which anglers can set out in pursuit of sockeye salmon, Rainbow Trout, bull trout and lake trout.

Wallowa Lake County Park is also the launching point for a large annual fireworks show on the Fourth of July.

Among the mountains at the southern end of the lake that has a surface elevation of 4,372 feet is Wallowa Lake State Park.

Aside from a view looking back toward the north end of the lake and up at the mountains, this park has 121 full hookup camp sites and 88 tent sites from which you can get an even grander view at night.

Because of its elevation and its great distance from any light producing large cities, the sky is extra dark and brings out a countless array of the Milky Way Galaxy's stars as well as the visible planets of our solar system and other astronomical features.

Also available at the state park are a marina, a beach, two yurts to stay in, three group tent areas, hiker/biker camping, hot showers, toilets and a play area.

It also has picnic tables, including two group areas that can be reserved with one covered.

The state park runs one mile up the Wallowa River to the Little Alps day use area with one more group picnic setting nestled between the Wallowa's east and west forks.

Hikes into the Wallowa Mountains of the Eagle Cap Wilderness Area abound.

The state park is open all year, including for day use and camping.

In between the state and county parks on the east side of the lake you can find the start of a tram ride to the top of 8,150 foot Mount Howard with a stunning view well worth the extra time it takes -- plus a restaurant.

How to get there:

Take Highway 82 off of Interstate 84 in La Grande and head east on what is also known as the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway to the town of Joseph.  Take a right and head south on the Wallowa Lake Highway to the county park and on to the tramway base and the state park.

Call (800) 551-6949 for information on the state park with reservations available at (800) 452-5687.

For tram information, call (541) 432-5331 or look up info@wallowalaketramway.com.

The tram address is 59919 Wallowa Lake Highway, Joseph, OR 97846.

Text and photos by Tim Clinton.

Hells Canyon better than its name

What is the deepest canyon in North America?

Most people would say the Grand Canyon in Arizona, but actually it is Hells Canyon on the border between Oregon and Idaho -- by almost 2,000 feet.

Hells Canyon boasts a maximum depth of 7,913 feet to the maximum depth of 6,093 feet for the Grand Canyon.

Yet it is the Grand Canyon that is well traveled and in a national park, while Hells Canyon is little known, seldom visited and remote.

Grand Canyon is wider at 18 miles to the 10-mile width of Hells Canyon, and longer at a whopping 278 miles to the 125 miles of Hells Canyon.

But give Hells Canyon its due.

The Hells Canyon National Recreation Area has plenty of boating and rafting opportunities on the Snake River below, plus hiking and outstanding views from such places as the Hells Canyon Overlook on the Oregon side.

Hells Canyon is more tree and grass covered with rolling hills as viewed from the top, while the Grand Canyon has more exposed rock and a more dramatic drop.

How to get there:

The Hells Canyon Overlook can best be accessed on the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway, a group of roads in northeast Oregon that form a loop that can be made in less than a day.  Or, if you prefer, the loop can be broken up by either camping or staying in one of the small towns along the way.

Both ends of the loop start on Interstate 84 going southeast bound out of the Portland area (and Interstate 82 from Washington) or northwest bound out of Idaho.

Highway 82 starting in La Grande, Ore. makes up the northern portion of the loop and Highway 86 from just above Baker City, Ore. makes up the southern portion.

Follow the signs for the Hells Canyon Overlook off of Forest Service roads 39 and 3365 near Hells Canyon to make the connection between the two portions.

The closest sizeable towns are Enterprise, Ore. at 52 miles away in the north and Halfway, Ore. at 33 miles away in the south.

The address is NF-490, Imnaha, OR 97842.

The entire loop is 218.4 miles long.

Boat trips are accessed out of Lewiston, Idaho.

Text and photos by Tim Clinton.

Johnston Ridge offers point blank view

Point blank.

Up close and personal.

Unobstructed.

Those are the words and phrases that come to mind when it comes to the view of Mount St. Helens from Johnston Ridge.

There is nothing between you and the crater and lava dome on the exploded north side of the Washington volcano as you look across from next to the Johnston Ridge Observatory.

All that is below is the landslide zone from what set off the infamous May 18, 1980 blast, including a deep canyon carved out in only the 42 years since that would look to be much older.

You can pay $8.00 to go inside the observatory and take a look at the mountain through the window and at presentations and films about its eruptions, or walk along the outside and take in the view and snap pictures.

Also impressive on Johnston Ridge besides the view of the volcano is the mixture of barrenness and dead fallen trees and stumps along with new life.

Grass, bushes and small trees have poked their way into the scene along with flowering vegetation such as flaming red Indian Paintbrush and white Everlasting Flowers.  Even an occasional chipmunk makes an appearance.

Highway 504 to Johnston Ridge is well paved the whole way, and you can look down on the Toutle River and the mud flow that came crashing down the valley after the 1980 landslide and blast.

You can also look up and see the west side of the mountain and part of the crater to the left.

From there the road winds down to the shores of Coldwater Lake, which was also created in 1980, then back up again as you get closer and closer to Johnston Ridge -- and the mountain itself.

The road ends in a wide parking lot, and from the southeast side of the lot is a trail that takes you uphill to the observatory and viewpoint.

Johnston Ridge is named after David A. Johnston, the volcanologist stationed on the ridge who announced to his Vancouver headquarters and the world that "This is it" about the May 18 eruption right before his death in the blast.

How to get there:

To get to Johnston Ridge, take the I-5 exit onto Highway 504 at Castle Rock and stay on it to its end 52 miles to the east.  You can also take the Highway 505 exit until it goes through Toledo and joins 504, where you take a left.

The Johnston Ridge Observatory address is 24000 Spirit Lake Highway, Toutle, WA 98649.

For more information, call (360) 274-2140.

Text and photos by Tim Clinton.

Lighthouse shines on Puget Sound

It's so close and yet so far.

Point Robinson Lighthouse shines its bright Fresnel lens a short distance across Puget Sound from Federal Way to Des Moines and Three Tree Point, but requires a good deal of driving, a ferry boat ride and more driving to get to it.

A ferry can only be accessed from West Seattle to the north, Tacoma's Point Defiance to the south and from Southworth on the Kitsap Peninsula side to the west.

From any of those directions you must then drive to the middle of lengthy Vashon Island and across Maury Island to eventually get to Point Robinson on the northeast corner of Maury.

From there you park in a small lot on top of a tree covered bluff and wander down the hill to the park lawn and driftwood strewn beach.

You can sit on a log and take in the close-up views of Federal Way, Redondo Beach, Des Moines and Normandy Park and any ships that pass in between, or walk to the lighthouse and its accompanying residence.

The lighthouse was first built in 1914 and opened in 1915,  and is a 38 foot tall structure made of concrete.  It was automated in 1978.

The whole site was featured in a children's Christmas story written by Berkeley Breathed by the name of "The Red Ranger Came Calling."

The park covers a total of 10 acres of beach front property and marks the halfway point between Seattle and Tacoma.

Lighthouse tours are not currently available because of Covid, so it would be best to save any visit until after that scare is sufficiently over to allow them to resume.

For more information on the Point Robinson Lighthouse park, you can contact the Vashon Park District at info@vashonparks.org or (206) 463-9602.

How to get there:

The Point Robinson Lighthouse is located at 3705 S.W. Point Robinson Road in Vashon, Washington.

Take one of the aforementioned ferries to first get to Vashon Island, landing on the northern tip from Southworth or from Fauntleroy in West Seattle -- or on the southern shore at Tahlequah if coming from Point Defiance in Tacoma.

From either the north or south, drive up the hill and stay on Vashon Highway S.W. until you come to S.W. Quartermaster Drive and turn east into Portage.  Turn right onto the narrow connection between Vashon and Maury islands and stay on it as it becomes S.W. Point Robinson Road.

Otherwise you could take a small private vessel from Des Moines or Redondo Beach to Point Robinson on a nice day.  The park is only a two mile trip across the East Passage of Puget Sound from Des Moines.

Just follow that flashing light.

Text and photos by Tim Clinton.

 

This farm grows a new kind of crop

 

Weird white things have sprouted up in the desert between Ellensburg and Vantage in recent years.

They're gigantic, yet sleek, with slowly spinning propeller blades.

They're everywhere, dominating a landscape that once boasted little more than sage brush.

They are the windmills of the Wild Horse Wind and Solar Facility owned by Puget Sound Energy.

They can be seen all over the hillsides from I-90, or up close and personal -- and even from the inside -- at the Renewable Energy Center located above the old Vantage Highway that parallels I-90 to the north.

The purpose of this wind "farm" is to produce inexpensive renewable electrical power to help supply the over 1,000,000 customers of Puget Sound Energy who are spread out over 11 Washington counties.

Nestled next to the Renewable Energy Center are solar panels that further boost electrical production.

Visitors to the center can learn about both energy sources through displays set up in partnership with nearby Central Washington University in Ellensburg as well as about the area's human and natural history.

Not only can they see the displays, windmills and solar panels at the center, on a clear day they can take in views of Mount Rainier, Mount Adams and even the top of Oregon's Mount Hood in the distance.

They can also see the Columbia Basin to the east in the direction of Moses Lake from this lofty point.

Visitors can go inside the center from 9 a.m. through 5:30 p.m. daily from April through November, weather permitting.

Free tours with no reservation needed depart daily at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. as weather allows.

Other options are available as well.

You can call ahead and schedule a separate group tour, or fill out a permit and wander around the ridges and valleys and see the windmills on your own.

A look inside the massive windmills is only available with a tour, however.

In order to go inside and see the inner workings you must wear closed toed shoes as well as the hard hats and safety goggles that are provided.

You can also schedule a conference at the center.  It has a meeting room that accommodates 48 people along with a kitchen and catering facilities.

To schedule a tour or a conference, call (509) 964-7815.

It's a breeze.

How to get there:

From the Puget Sound area and the west, travel eastbound I-90 to Ellensburg exit 106.  Follow the exit around and across an overpass to a four-way stop.  Continue on University Way until it becomes Vantage Highway and follow that for 16.5 miles.

From Spokane and the east, travel west on I-90 to Vantage exit 136, take a left onto Vantage Highway and follow it for 10.5 miles.    

From Yakima and the south, go north on I-82 and merge onto eastbound I-90.  Take exit 115 into Kittitas.  Turn right at a "T" onto Patrick Ave., turn left at 81 road then right at Vantage Highway for 10.5 miles.

For all routes, enter through the Wild Horse main gate and continue for three more miles.

Text and photos by Tim Clinton.